2024-2026 Wines of the month

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You have never heard of Prieto Picudo. We’re pretty confident of that. So let’s give you some choices. Prieto Picudo is:

A. An earthquake fault in Alaska.

B. A Chilean seafood dish.

C. The President of Panama.

D. A rare, dark-skinned red grape grown mainly in the León region of northern Spain, but with roughly 10 acres grown near Lodi, and the protagonist of our December wine of the month profile.

Okay, we’re like the teacher who gives easy quizzes; you wouldn’t be reading this if D wasn’t the correct answer. And the 2022 Workshop Cellars Prieto Picudo Mokelumne River is our December wine of the month.

Now let’s talk about the man behind this unicorn of a wine: Andrew Harwood, owner and winemaker of Workshop Cellars. Andrew is one of those maddeningly talented, relentlessly curious winemakers who treats California’s underdog varieties the way some people treat their rescue dogs—total devotion, zero ego, and all heart. After years exploring the breadth of California’s vineyards, he developed a passion for small-batch wines with soul, character, and just a little bit of rebellion. Workshop Cellars is the natural extension of that ethos: a tiny, creativity-first winery where craftsmanship rules the day and every wine tells a story. Prieto Picudo was never the “safe” choice, which is exactly why Andrew had to make it.

He also brings that same passion to education through NYC Wine Company, where he teaches a wide range of approachable, engaging, and legitimately fun wine classes. His students will tell you he has a gift for making complex wine concepts feel effortless—and for turning even the most obscure grape varieties (hello, Prieto Picudo) into something exciting, understandable, and worth seeking out. It’s no wonder his classes fill up quickly: Andrew makes learning about wine feel like a great night out rather than a lecture.

So just how rare is the Prieto Picudo that Andrew made? It’s so rare in the Golden State that the California Grape Crush Report clocked only 4.4 tons crushed in 2022—compared to 566,935 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2024, the grand total for Prieto Picudo crushed in California was: zero. Zilch. The big, fat goose egg. If this variety had a Tinder profile, it would simply read: “It’s complicated. And also nearly nonexistent.”

So how does this obscure northern Spanish grape thrive in the Mokelumne River AVA? Simple: the site quietly provides everything it loves. The region’s famously deep, sandy loam soils give Prieto Picudo the drainage it thrives on. The warm, sun-drenched days help the grape develop its inky color and intense aromatics, while the Delta breezes sweep through at night, dropping temperatures and preserving the grape’s naturally high acidity.

The 2022 growing season in Mokelumne River proved especially well suited for Prieto Picudo. A warm, dry spring led to excellent fruit set, followed by a consistently hot summer that pushed the grape toward full phenolic ripeness—exactly what this variety needs to develop its signature dark-fruited depth. Crucially, the region’s reliable nighttime cooling prevented the acidity from dropping, letting the wine retain its snap, vibrancy, and structure. The result? Fruit that was ripe, concentrated, and beautifully balanced—prime conditions for turning this Spanish rarity into a California standout.

The 2022 Workshop Cellars Prieto Picudo Mokelumne River pours a deep purple—not quite as opaque as some of California’s blockbuster Cabs, but still richly pigmented and vibrant in the glass. Enough so to announce: Yes, I work out. Its glass-coating viscosity hints at the wine’s generosity and concentration. Aromas follow with a rush of Morello cherry coulis, blood orange, pomegranate, and lavender, all wrapped in savory tones of black pepper, clove, and a wisp of mezcal smoke. On the palate, the grape’s signature high acid and tannin show up fully integrated—serious structure without a single rough edge. A hint of neutral oak pulls everything into focus on the finish. The wine is medium-plus in body with pronounced intensity, and it opens gorgeously with air, becoming bigger, deeper, and more complex with every minute in the glass.

For years, Peninsula Underground has championed wines just like this: small-production, risk-taking, conversation-starting bottles made by winemakers willing to swim against the Cabernet current. We love Cab, sure—but we love discovery more. And this wine is discovery in a bottle.

Best of all, at just $30.00, this wine is a phenomenal value. Buy as much as you can because it’s rare, it’s delicious, and it’s the kind of bottle that instantly elevates your wine credibility. I mean, anyone can serve a Cab. But how many of your friends have ever tasted Prieto Picudo? Our December wine of the month isn’t just a pick. It’s a flex.

So as we wrap up this profile, we leave you with one more multiple-choice question—extra credit this time:

Choosing the 2022 Workshop Cellars Prieto Picudo Mokelumne River makes you:

A. Someone who enjoys obscure, delicious things.

B. A friend others trust with wine recommendations.

C. A person with excellent taste and even better instincts.


D. All of the above.

If you’ve been paying attention, you already know the answer.

Learn more about Workshop Cellars and purchase their wine, and learn more about NYC Wine Company and sign up for a class, here:

https://www.workshopcellars.com
@WorkshopCellars
https://nycwinecompany.com
@NYCWineCompany

Larry Schaffer knows your palate better than you do. He does. Walk into his tasting room on Alamo Pintado Avenue in Los Olivos, and, after being wowed by his stunning wine wall, you’ll find yourself in the presence of a man who’s part winemaker, part palate whisperer, and part stand-up philosopher of Rhône varietals.

Larry doesn’t just pour wine — he starts a conversation. And not one of those “let me tell you what you should be tasting” kinds of conversations, either. No, Larry’s style is all about you. He’ll hand you a glass, raise an eyebrow, and ask, “How do you drink your coffee?” It’s his favorite question — and before you know it, you’re actually paying attention to your senses instead of the tasting notes you read online five minutes before walking in.

That’s Larry’s genius. He’s not trying to imprint his palate on yours. He wants to unlock yours. He knows that wine isn’t about being right — it’s about being curious. That’s probably why, in addition to being one of Santa Barbara County’s most respected winemakers, he’s also the current President of the Rhône Rangers, the group dedicated to promoting America’s Rhône-style wines. Translation: if there’s a grape that sounds French, is tricky to pronounce, and has flavor for days — Larry’s your guy.

Which brings us to our November Wine of the Month: the 2023 Tercero Wines Counoise Santa Barbara County (pronounced “coon-wahz,” but don’t worry — Larry will make you say it a few times until you get it right).

Counoise is one of those underdog grapes that rarely gets the spotlight in Rhône blends, but in Larry’s hands, it’s the star of the show. The wine practically dances in the glass and soars aromatically — bright ruby, bursting with energy, and radiating juicy red fruit. It has that playful mix of cranberry, pomegranate, and wild strawberry you think you smell, plus a little spice that sneaks in at the finish like a knowing wink. It’s nimble on its feet but full of character — much like Larry himself.

And when it comes to Thanksgiving dinner, this Counoise might just be your secret weapon. It’s friendly with turkey, unbothered by cranberry sauce, and perfectly chill about sharing the table with stuffing, sweet potatoes, and your aunt’s “experimental” side dish. The gentle tannins and lively acidity make it the ideal bottle for a feast full of competing flavors — the one wine that can keep the peace between the mashed potatoes and the green bean casserole.

So this November, as you give thanks for family, friends, and food that’s slightly overcooked but made with love, raise a glass of slightly chilled Tercero Counoise. And maybe, just maybe, channel a little Larry Schaffer while you sip — open-minded, curious, and confident enough to trust your own palate. Because Larry knows your palate better than you do… at least until he teaches you to know it just as well.

Learn more about Tercero, purchase their wine (including the 2023 Counoise at the killer value of $40), and follow them here:

https://www.tercerowines.com

@TerceroWines

When you hold the 2021 Racing Series Shift Red Wine from Adobe Road Winery in the glass, you sense right away it’s not your standard Sonoma County (61%) or Santa Barbara County (39%) red. The metal-shift-knob cork and sleek, gear‑inspired label nod to the racing roots behind these wines—but inside the bottle, it's equally spirited in the vineyard. It’s also our October wine of the month.

Adobe Road was founded in 2002 by legendary race‑car driver Kevin Buckler and his wife Debra, and the Racing Series is their tribute to the intersection of speed, precision, and quiet patience. The philosophy behind these blends is that just as in motorsport, you harness raw power but finesse it with tuning and balance.

In this version of the Shift, the lineup is 52 % Zinfandel, 25 % Teroldego, 18 % Syrah, and 5 % Carignane—a slight twist on earlier iterations that leaned into Tempranillo or Petite Sirah blends.

What each varietal adds is subtle but essential. The Zinfandel is the engine—ripe red and dark berries, some jammy notes, spice, and richness. It gives the wine its forward fruit lift and plush drive. The Teroldego (often a lesser‑used Italian grape) contributes structure, freshness, and darker backbone—think wild blackberry, moderate acidity, and a hint of mineral lift. Syrah brings savory complexity: pepper, dark plums, smoky tones, and a bit of grip. And that final sprinkle of Carignane brings breath and a bit of rustic spice, helping to tie the edges together and give lift to the mid-palate. Together they create a wine that feels generous and bold, but kept in check by thoughtful support.

At $65 per bottle, this wine offers excellent value for what you’re getting. You’re not merely paying for gimmick or label design (though the racing branding is elegant); you’re getting a small-lot, boutique-style blend with complexity and depth. In its peer group — California red blends leaning toward the expressive side — $65 is quite reasonable, especially when the blend is this well thought out and each component is doing real lifting. It’s a wine that rewards concentration and re‑visiting: on day one it’s fun and fruit-forward, but over the evening it opens up and reveals deeper layers.

Shift is both a statement bottle and a delicious example of how blending uncommon grapes can pay off. It’s a conversation piece, yes, but it’s also one you’ll happily drink through the fall. Let your guests swirl, sniff, and taste deliberately—and enjoy how each varietal’s voice comes in and out of the mix as the wine evolves. They'll quickly understand why it's our October wine of the month.

Learn more about Adobe Road Winery, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://adoberoadwines.com

@AdobeRoadWines

There is a certain magic to Carneros in early autumn—the fog still lingers in the morning, cool breezes sweep in from San Pablo Bay, and the vineyards begin to glow with golden light. It’s the kind of place where Pinot Noir feels perfectly at home, ripening slowly under a gentle sun and developing the poise and aromatic lift that wine lovers chase from one vintage to the next. Few wines capture that sense of place as vividly as the 2021 Obsidian Wine Co. Pinot Noir Poseidon Vineyard Carneros, Peninsula Underground’s September wine of the month.

In the glass, the wine opens with an aromatic flourish of red cherry, wild strawberry, and rose petal, accented by a snap of orange rind and a subtle hint of tea leaf. The palate is vibrant and medium-bodied, marked by lively acidity and fine-grained tannins that give the wine a graceful, almost weightless feel. Aging in Obsidian’s signature Hungarian oak barrels adds baking-spice notes—clove, nutmeg, and a whisper of toasted grain—without overwhelming the fruit. The finish is clean and persistent, leaving the impression of elegance over power.

Beyond its flavor, the wine is an outstanding value. Priced in the mid-$30s to $40 range, it offers single-vineyard precision and pedigree at a price well below many Carneros peers, which often push beyond $50 for similar quality. That balance of craftsmanship and approachability has long been a hallmark of Obsidian Wine Co., a family-run winery led by brothers Peter and Árpád Molnar, along with co-founder Michael Terrien, and winemaker Alex Beloz. Their Poseidon Vineyard—planted in 1973 on the southern edge of Napa Carneros near the Napa Marina—anchors the winery’s Pinot Noir program and represents one of the district’s pioneering sites.

The vineyard’s location is critical to its character. Nestled near the confluence of Carneros Creek and the Napa River, Poseidon benefits from bay-cooled afternoons and fog-draped mornings, conditions that preserve acidity and allow fruit to ripen slowly and evenly. Gravelly, well-drained soils add another layer of finesse, helping deliver the brightness and spice-tinged red-fruit profile that define this wine. Adding to its uniqueness, Obsidian ages its wines in barrels from Kádár Hungary, a cooperage the team co-owns, which imparts subtler spice and structure than standard French oak.

Like the Carneros region itself, the 2021 Poseidon Vineyard Pinot Noir is defined by balance—between fruit and spice, freshness and depth, elegance and value. It’s a bottle that not only reflects its place but also evokes the season when Carneros is at its most beautiful—early autumn, when fog, light, and vine come together to remind us why Pinot Noir thrives here. Opening a bottle feels like stepping into that moment, one sip at a time.

Learn more about Obsidian Wine Co., purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.obsidianwineco.com

@ObsidianWineCo

Most people just never take their swing. That long-held dream of theirs is ever present, but time marches on, life takes hold, and ambition for practicality and comfort masquerades as true happiness. That’s the lie they tell themselves. Matt Espiro Jaeger and Carolina Espiro Jaeger are not most people. They took their swing…

There’s a fire beneath the surface of the NV Bán White Wine Blend from Fuil Wines, our August wine of the month. You can taste it in the wine’s tension, its restrained opulence, its confident architecture. It’s the kind of wine that doesn’t just happen. It’s built—crafted—by someone who believed in the idea enough to sweat for it, to risk for it, and to live it out with integrity. That someone is winemaker Matt Jaeger, who, alongside his wife Carolina, runs Fuil Wines, a tiny, passionate label nestled in Santa Barbara County’s Santa Ynez Valley. Their journey together is not just the story of a winery—it’s the story of love, risk, patience, and purpose.

Bán (meaning “white” in Gaelic) is an unlikely triumph: a non-vintage blend that earned both Double Gold and Best-in-Class Chardonnay at this year’s Peninsula Underground Under the Radar California competition. What makes it so compelling? It’s not just a great Chardonnay—it’s a Chardonnay (89%) + Viognier (11%) hybrid that delivers freshness and finesse in equal measure. On the palate, tropical fruit, honeysuckle, and blossom rise to meet you first, opening into a core of wet stone and orange zest. And then there’s that honeyed, silken texture—a whisper of Viognier adding an extra dimension of richness and complexity. This is a wine that doesn’t scream; it sings.

Behind every sip of Bán (a ridiculous value at $32) is the story of a couple who, for two decades, made wine not just a hobby but a cornerstone of their relationship. From first dates to anniversaries, wine has followed Matt and Carolina like a second language—a way to connect, celebrate, and dream. When the time came to stop drinking other people’s dreams and start bottling their own, they launched Fuil Wines, a name that means blood, kin, land, and passion. And from the very start, they committed to sourcing grapes from organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards—because you can’t make honest wine without honest farming.

Matt’s path began in rural Wisconsin—an unlikely origin for a winemaker, perhaps, but all the more poetic for it. As a kid, he watched his father fall in love with wine through a community college class, and the ritual of pouring and talking about a bottle became a rare father-son connection. From that spark came a lifelong fascination. Later, Matt worked long hours and side gigs just to afford wines that moved him, absorbing their lessons and quietly plotting his own future among the vines.

Carolina’s path was more instinctive. Raised in a Chilean household where wine was an everyday staple, she understood wine as both nourishment and culture. But it wasn’t until she began working in restaurants and wine bars that she came to appreciate wine’s storytelling power—how a single sip can reveal a place, a climate, even a moment. As a filmmaker, that resonance stuck with her. Now, as co-owner of Fuil, Carolina brings not just vision but a deep emotional intelligence to every decision they make, from vineyard sourcing to storytelling.

This blend, Bán, embodies everything Matt and Carolina set out to do. It’s a wine made with patience and thoughtfulness, where the Santa Ynez sunshine is met with an Old World sensibility. It doesn’t lean too hard in any one direction—it just moves gracefully from brightness to depth to texture. There’s no flash here. Just finesse. And in the world of boutique California whites, that quiet confidence is everything.

With just a few hundred cases made, Fuil remains one of California’s best-kept secrets—but that secret is getting harder to keep. In just four vintages, they’ve racked up eight Best-in-Class wins at Peninsula Underground’s Under the Radar California competition, a staggering feat for any winery, let alone one so young. And their wine club, Kindred Fuils, keeps growing. It’s not hype. It’s not marketing. It’s just what happens when two people take their swing—and hit something beautiful.

Learn more about Fuil Wines, follow them, and purchase their wine here:

https://www.fuilwines.com

@FuilWines

We discovered a true family winery about 4.5 miles outside Ortigia Island in Sicily. Not the massive family empire of the Wagners or the Jacksons, but rather a true family of four at Fausta Mansio. Olaf (the winemaker), his wife, and two young sons are carrying on Olaf’s father’s impressive legacy of reviving the Moscato di Siracusa DOC, one of the world’s most ancient wines.

Sicilian economic hardship in the 1970s forced almost all farmers to eradicate their vineyards and replace them with seemingly more profitable citrus orchards. DOC status is lost if there is no cultivation for 40 years. Fortunately, Olaf’s father planted the Moscsto grape on their farm in 1995 and the DOC was revived and saved. Today they also grow Grillo, Nero d’Avola, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

When you taste their outstanding, organically-grown wines you visit their home patio, where Olaf’s wife prepares scrumptious appetizers using fresh, simple ingredients that pair impeccably with each wine. The gels they serve on their cheeses are even made from their grapes. This is everything you hope for when visiting a family winery. It was a really special day.

We were so impressed with the dry Moscato and Grillo wines that we are shipping home six bottles of each. In fact, the Fausta Mansio Micol Moscato Bianco Secco is our July wine of the month.

When many people think of Moscato they think of a sweet wine. However, our wine of the month is not; “secco” means dry. The wine was vinified using spontaneous fermentation with native yeast, no clarification, aged in steel tanks, and refined in bottle. The slightly cloudy, medium straw color evokes curiosity and excitement; we are so used to drinking wine that is crystal clear. On the nose you’ll find orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and strawberry. The palate also reveals white peach, white melon, apple, and tea. It’s only 12% ABV and just a joy to drink. At the risk of being overly dramatic, we felt we were enjoying culture and history in a glass.

For making an invaluable contribution to the wine world—and a standout organic representation of Moscato di Siracusa at only €12–the Fausta Mansio Micol Moscato Bianco Secco is our July wine of the month.

Lean more about Fausta Mansio here: 

https://www.faustamansio.com.

To purchase their wine DM Olaf here: @Fausta_Mansio_Vini_Bio.

If you are a California fine-wine aficionado chances are you have heard of winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown—or TRB—as he is reverently known. And even if you haven’t, you almost certainly know his wines: Riverain, Schrader, Seaver, Maybach, Mending Wall, and Revana, just to name a few.

TRB is renowned for his minimalist, terroir-driven approach that has significantly influenced Napa Valley's wine scene. Born in Sumter, South Carolina, Brown developed an interest in wine while studying economics and literature at the University of Virginia. After graduating, he moved to California in 1996 and began his winemaking career at Turley Wine Cellars in 1997 under the mentorship of Ehren Jordan. Brown is currently responsible for winemaking and consulting for over 40 winemaking projects in Napa and Sonoma, including his own winery, Rivers-Marie. He is known for crafting high-end Cabernet Sauvignons and his wines have garnered multiple perfect 100-point scores from critics like Robert Parker and the late, great James Laube.

Mending Wall Winery, located on the Silverado Trail in St. Helena, is a collaborative venture founded in 2024 by Brown, vintner Frank Dotzler, and Mark and Donna Pulido-Walker. The winery's name draws inspiration from Robert Frost's poem of the same name, symbolizing unity and collaboration in winemaking. 

Emphasizing a minimalist approach, Mending Wall produces small-lot, limited-production wines that reflect the purity of Napa Valley's terroir. Their portfolio includes varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Chardonnay, sourced from esteemed vineyards across the region. The winery's modern, sustainably designed facility offers an intimate tasting experience, blending contemporary architecture with the natural beauty of the surrounding vineyards.

On a trip to Mending Wall we were poured several of TRB’s vineyard-designate Cabernet Sauvignons, each one sublime, as well as the outstanding Petite Sirah. Surely any of them are worthy to be our wine of the month. Instead, we highlight TRB’s versatility as a winemaker with Mending Wall’s 2022 Stone on Stone Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley, our June wine of the month.

Made in a Bordeaux style reminiscent of the Graves District, the Stone on Stone Sauvignon Blanc blends in Semillon, resulting in a wine with the freshness of lemon, stone fruit, and guava but also with a great texture and roundness. This is not the typical monolithic Sauvignon Blanc, but rather an offering of thoughtfulness and complexity. To stick with the Robert Frost theme, the finish is not so much Fire and Ice as it is The Road Not Taken. This is a singular Sauvignon Blanc, worthy of your attention. At $45 it is also a ridiculous value. Buy a bunch!

Sauvignon Blanc season is upon us. When perhaps the country’s finest winemaker produces one unlike any other at a reasonable price—the 2022 Mending Wall Winery Stone on Stone Napa Valley—you have to know it would be our June wine of the month.

Learn more about Mending Wall Winery, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.mendingwall.com

@MendingWallWines

We know you have lots of questions about wine, because we get asked them all the time! For instance, if you’ve ever wondered whether rosé Champagne could be both delicate and structured (likely first and foremost on your mind :) ), our May wine of the month, the 2021 Rémi Leroy Champagne Brut Rosé, might be your answer. We tasted this standout from the Côte des Bar during Hi-Time Wine Cellars' Grower Champagne Tasting, where Jerome Brenot walked us through a flight of seriously character-driven bottles. Among them, this rosé shone for its clarity, quiet complexity, and sheer drinkability.

Before we dive into the wine itself, a quick word about the man behind it. Rémi Leroy is part of the new guard of Champagne growers reshaping the region’s narrative. Based in Meurville, in the Aube’s Côte des Bar, Leroy transitioned his family’s grape-growing operation into an estate-bottling domaine in the early 2010s, after earning degrees in oenology and viticulture. He farms just over 9 hectares of vines with a commitment to minimal intervention and maximum transparency. The terroir here is limestone-rich, like Chablis just to the south, and it gives his wines a distinctive mineral drive that sets them apart.

This Brut Rosé is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Meunier, with 15% of the Pinot Noir vinified as still red wine for color and structure. The dosage is a crisp 3 g/L, and the wine spent two years on the lees, giving it depth without weighing it down. In the glass, it shows a luminous salmon-pink hue—more elegant than flashy.

On the nose, it’s all about precision and restraint: blood orange, tart cranberry, crushed chalk, and the faintest hint of white flowers. The fruit is there, but it never steals the show. Instead, there’s a sense of shape and energy—like the aromas are etched into the glass rather than painted on.

The palate is where it gets quietly thrilling. That Aube limestone makes itself known through a firm mineral core, but the texture is generous, thanks to the fine mousse and careful lees aging. Tart cherry, raspberry, and a subtle herbal twist ride alongside bright acidity, making this Champagne both food-friendly and contemplative. It finishes long, dry, and slightly saline—clean and mouthwatering enough to call for a second glass.

At $62.95 from Hi-Time, this bottle punches well above its weight. It’s an expression of place, of thoughtful winemaking, and of Champagne beyond the big houses. Rémi Leroy is making wines with intention and identity—and this Brut Rosé is a prime example, making it our May wine of the month.

Learn more about Rémi Leroy Champagne, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://champagne-remi-leroy.fr/#presentation

https://www.hitimewine.net/remi-leroy-extra-brut-rose-80-pn-20-meunier-15-red-wine.-disgorged-10-22-3g-l.-374064

@rleroychampagne

Quickly: Think about a winery where you like everything they make….

These wineries are rare, but I bet it was easy for you to come up with a name right away. If you live near Prosser, Washington, chances are your answer is Coyote Canyon Winery. In just two years of Peninsula Underground’s Washington State Wine Competition, they have won six best-in-class medals, six double golds, three golds, and seven silvers. That is one heck of a résumé in a short period of time. But the history of Coyote Canyon Canyon Winery goes back more than 40 years.

What Bob Andrews began as a cattle operation in the 1950s, transitioned to planting Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in the early 1980s, and was licensed by son Mike as Coyote Canyon Winery in the early 2000s. Current winemaker Justin Michaud came on board in 2013, and has been making high-quality wine in the Horse Heaven Hills ever since.

With such an impressive lineup to choose from, selecting just one wine from Coyote Canyon as our April wine of the month is challenging. The 2024 Albariño, however, checks all the boxes. It won double gold and best in class in Peninsula Underground’s 2025 Washington State Wine Competition, was the ninth best wine overall, and at $28, the eighth best value. But it also has history on its side.

In 2006, Coyote Canyon Winery became the first winery in Washington state to plant Albariño. When you think of this grape, you very likely think of northwest Spain, but Albariño also thrives in the Horse Heaven Hills for several reasons:

1. The region has a warm, dry climate with cool nights, which helps Albariño retain acidity while developing ripe fruit flavors.
2. The soil in Horse Heaven Hills is well-draining, which is crucial for Albariño, a variety that doesn't like overly wet conditions. The well-drained soils help the vines produce concentrated, high-quality grapes.
3. The AVA enjoys a lot of sunlight, which helps the grape reach full ripeness without losing its acidity.
4. Horse Heaven Hills is known for good air circulation, which helps prevent fungal diseases and maintains vine health. This ensures a cleaner crop, which is important for producing high-quality Albariño wines.
5. 
   

These factors combine to create an optimal environment for Albariño, resulting in wines with crisp acidity, bright fruit flavors, and aromatic complexity. Here’s what our judges said about our wine of the month:A vibrant and refreshing wine, offering a dynamic range of primary flavors. On the nose, it showcases pronounced green apple, banana, pineapple, and pear, balanced by a touch of honeysuckle, petrichor, and grassy notes. The palate reveals subtle undertones of basil that add a unique depth. Floral tones and a mild white pepper hint round out the profile. Its steely finish is slightly effervescent, crisp, and clean, leaving a long, lingering sensation on the palate. The rare wine that is complex even though it is almost entirely primary in character.

Apart from all of the above, this is one of the wines that judges kept commenting about after the competition was over. And this new release can be yours for only $28 a bottle. Buy a whole bunch!

A pioneering varietal from a gifted winemaker in the heart of Horse Heaven Hills at an unbelievable price. That’s why the 2024 Coyote Canyon Winery Albariño is our wine of the month.

Learn more about Coyote Canyon Winery, buy their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.coyotecanyonwinery.com

@CoyoteCanyonWinery 

When it comes to wine, it only takes one word to make you sound sophisticated, turn you into a savvy shopper, and fill your glass with delicious, world-class wine: Vacqueyras.

Nestled in the Southern Rhône Valley at the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail, northeast of revered Châteauneuf-du-Pape and southwest of Gigondas, Vacqueyras has produced red wines of distinction for far longer than when it was elevated to Cru status in 1990. Approximately 95% of the wine produced here is red and they are blends. Grenache must make up a minimum of 50%, while Syrah and Mourvèdre must make up a minimum of 20%. These three grapes must account for at least 90% of the wine. A true GSM.

Vacqueyras comes from Latin and means “Valley of Stones.” It is no surprise then that the soil types of this region are pebbles, granite, limestone, sandy, and clay. With its location at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, a cooler microclimate than the sun-baked Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras produces a more elegant wine with lighter body and tannic structure, and lower alcohol than its more illustrious neighbor. The quality is every bit as good as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it’s just that the style is slightly different. However, while the entry level Châteauneuf-du-Pape might begin around $35, that is more of the top end of Vacqueyras.

This brings us to our March wine of the month, the 2021 Vignoble Edmond Latour Vacqueyras. A fourth generation producer run by Bernard Latour, his wife, and two sons, Julian and Emilie, the wine is named for their grandfather, Edmond Latour.

The wine is medium ruby in the glass and on the nose exhibits garrigue and dried black fruit. The palate confirms the nose with dried blackberry and black cherry on the midpalate, followed by black pepper, but the star is the garrigue (rosemary, thyme, and sage). Tannins and acid are medium and the body is medium minus. A delicate, wine with just the right amount of fruit. Well balanced with a long finish. An excellent representation of Vacqueyras and best enjoyed now. Amazingly, this wine can be purchased for around $22.

For making a wine that captures the essence of its village at a great price, the 2021 Vignoble Edmond Latour Vacqueyras is our March wine of the month.

Purchase the wine from Hi-Time Wine Cellars here: 

https://www.hitimewine.net/vignoble-edmond-latour-2022-vacqueyras-345657.

An argument can be made that Santa Barbara County’s Sta. Rita Hills AVA is the most unique grape-growing region in the world. The western-most sub AVA in Santa Ynez Valley is at the mouth of the most pronounced transverse (east to west) range on the Pacific side of the Americas. This mountain orientation funnels cool ocean air through the valley, facilitating, as you travel west to east, world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Sta. Rita Hills, scrumptious Syrah in Ballard Canyon, and highly acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon in Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara.

Sta. Rita Hills also may be the only region on earth where grape vines grow directly out of diatomaceous earth (DE). This white rock (silica) was formed as algae on the ocean floor moved to the surface over thousands of years of earthquakes and volcanic activity. Grapes growing out of DE might cause some to assume that the resulting wines show distinct minerality. This comes down to where one falls on the “science to art” winemaking spectrum. The former can point to the fact there is no scientific evidence that minerals in the soil transfer to the wine. The latter will swear they can detect it on the palate.

In this singular convergence of transverse ranges and DE, Greg Brewer, one of America’s most highly regarded winemakers, has created our February wine of the month, the 2022 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Grapes from the 3D, Machado, Hapgood, and Perilune vineyards, all within Sta. Rita Hills AVA, are blended to create an expressive wine, perhaps a bit Burgundian in style with zippy acidity. A light cherry, plum, and pomegranate core lead to rose petals, baking spices, and turned earth. Use of the four vineyards gives this wine a roundness and makes it approachable and balanced.

We’ll leave it to you whether you taste minerality.

Brewer-Clifton offers several vineyard-designate Pinot Noir, each with a unique focus—and all quite good—at slightly higher prices. From a value standpoint, however, we love the 2022 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, which is $50 through Brewer-Clifton and less than $40 @MrHiTime. We encourage you to buy several bottles to enjoy now, and several to open over the next 8-10 years.

For making an outstanding Pinot Noir from one of the most unique wine regions on Earth at a great price, the 2022 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir is our February wine of the month.

Learn more about Brewer-Clifton, purchase their wines, and follow them here:

www.bygregbrewer.com

@brewerclifton

@mrhitime

You may often hear wines referred to as having a, “sense of place.“ But what does that mean? Is it a marketing buzz phrase or is there significance in it? When used properly, it is the latter.

When grapes are allowed to grow—and wines are then made—with minimal intervention, they are impacted by the soil, slope, aspect, warmth, sunshine, elevation, wind, etc. Each of these growing conditions (loosely referred to as the wine’s “terroir”) factors into the color, body, acid, tannins, aromas, flavors, alcohol, etc. in the wine. In the United States, for the most part, you can grow any grape varietal anywhere and make any wine you want. That doesn’t mean you should. Each grape varietal is unique and is typically suited to specific terroir.

If your favorite wine is Pinot Noir, for example, you should be mindful that it does not perform at its best in hot climates. But you can find plenty examples of hot-climate Pinot Noir grown in the United States. It’s a disservice to the grape, usually producing an inferior wine, one that is manipulated with additives to try to mimic a cooler climate. In Europe there are strict wine laws that regulate where this grape is permitted to be grown (e.g., Burgundy). These regulations are tied to the climatic factors of the region. By ensuring the best possible Pinot Noir, they preserve the reputation of the grape and the producer.

If you taste enough wine you will begin to recognize when it was grown in conditions suited to the variety and therefore has a sense of place.

With all of this in mind, we highlight a wine with a true sense of place: the 2019 Ten Acre by Bella Vineyards Cloak + Loam Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, our January wine of the month and the #6 wine of on our Top 50 Wines of 2024. We tasted this wine on a November trip to the caves at Bella, located on the northern end of Dry Creek Valley. The flagship grape of this AVA is Zinfandel, which typically thrives in warm, sunny regions. Zinfandel prefers much warmer weather than Pinot Noir. So how can our wine of the month truly have a sense of place? Remember, the location of the winery and tasting room is not necessarily the location where the grapes were grown.

The Ten Acre Cloak + Loam is aptly named, combining fruits from different vineyards with these characteristics. Pinot Noir thrives when grown in cool, foggy morning conditions, and in California it grows best in volcanic and loam soils. The “Cloak” comes from the foggy Petaluma Gap’s Crown Vineyard. The “Loam” refers to the Gap’s well-draining, iron-rich loam soil with its volcanic rock and the sandy loam Goldridge soils of the Earl Stephens Vineyard in the Russian River Valley.

The result is a silky, supple, medium-bodied wine with great depth of flavor. Expect dark plum, violet, black tea, rose petals, and Tahitian vanilla. Medium plus acidity and low, ripe tannins provide structure and carry the wine to a long finish. The 14.7% ABV is well integrated in the wine and therefore plays much lower. This is what Pinot Noir from the Petaluma Gap and Russian River Valley should be. This is a wine with a sense of place.

As we have written many times, value doesn’t mean low price. It means performing above the price point. We would expect to pay much more for this wine than its $68 price tag.

For making a classic Pinot Noir with a true sense of place and delivering great value, the 2019 Ten Acre by Bella Vineyards Cloak + Loam Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast is our January wine of the month.

Learn more about Bella Vineyards and Wine Caves, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.bellawinery.com

@BellaWineCaves

 “You’re a wine expert. What’s your favorite wine?”

If you talk to any of our 13 judges they will tell you that is the most common question they get asked about wine. It is also the most difficult question to answer. There are too many variables involved and we taste too much wine to pick one. A better question would be:

“What is an interesting or surprising wine you have tasted recently?”

We’re glad you asked! It is the 2023 Stonestreet Estate Vineyards White Blend Alexander Valley, our December wine of the month.

Founded in 1995 by Jess Stonestreet Jackson and Barbara Banke, Stonestreet encompasses 170 certified-sustainable micro-vineyards across their 5,300-acre mountain estate overlooking the Alexander Valley. In describing their locale, second-generation proprietor Chris Jackson says: “It gets extreme up here. You have 30-to-45 degree slopes and up to 2,400 feet of elevation. Some of the vineyard blocks are just totally impractical to farm, which is why I love them.”

On a recent visit to Stonestreet, our host Drea regaled us with tales of Jackson family history, Stonestreet’s impressive long-term planning, and the terrain that makes up their mountain estate. While describing how the family leaves more than 85% of the mountain estate unplanted so native flora and fauna can thrive, Drea poured us their 2023 Alexander Valley White Blend. This wine is led by Assyrtiko (74%), which is the most famous white wine on Santorini. We were a bit stunned to find it grown in Alexander Valley! In fact, Stonestreet may be one of only two families in California (along with the Perlegos family of Lodi) growing Assyrtiko.

The 2023 Stonestreet White Blend is characterized by Assyrtiko’s trademark salinity and acidity. Taste enough Assyrtiko and you will instantly recognize it. For most of you this will be a new wine-tasting sensation that will make a lasting impression. Winemaker Kristina Sideler adds Semillon to the blend for roundness and depth, while Malvasia Bianca pumps up the aromatics. Expect honeysuckle, white blossom, citrus, peach, honey, and almond. But the star is the salinity! It was a revelation; you just don’t get this in California.

In returning to the Jackson-family’s philosophy of long-term planning, we find it notable that the 2023 White Blend is 74% Assyrtiko; 1% more and they would be able to varietally label this wine. But how much would they sell? How many people who visit them will have ever heard of the grape? Instead, they have produced a familiar “White Blend” that will certainly elicit an instinctive response of discovery and wonder. What a great way to introduce a “new” grape.

For making an eye-opening white that doesn’t just add to the wine conversation but starts a whole new one, the 2023 Stonestreet White Blend Alexander Valley is our December wine of the month.

Learn more about Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.stonestreetwines.com 

@StonestreetWinery

Want to sound like a wine expert and be able to back it up? If someone asks you to recommend a wine then suggest anything from Tuscany, as long as it is the 2021 vintage. Then wait for the compliments.

It’s true, the 2021 vintage for all of Tuscany is epic—maybe the best ever! Near-perfect weather during the growing season allowed the grapes to ripen properly. From the traditional wines of Chianti Classico to international varietals in Bolgheri, red grapes flourished. The best part of what Mother Nature provided—and what world-class winemakers created—is a vintage so good that even at the value level, the wines are simply outstanding.

Take our December wine of the month, the 2021 Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso. For around $25.00 you can enjoy the best of Tuscany from a pioneering wine family. A blend of 30% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20%, Merlot, 10% Syrah, and 10% Teroldego, the deep ruby color is evidence of optimal extraction. Fresh raspberries, blackberries, and crushed rose petals on the midpalate, followed by herbs, tobacco, and a hint of licorice. The wine is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a supple mouthfeel. An elegant, medium-plus finish is the ribbon on top. A wonderful wine.

If you are a collector then 2021 provides you a spoil of riches. Pricier, high-end expressions from famed producers like Antinori, Masseto, and Fontodi can be acquired for aging, while amazing value wines, like our December wine of the month from Michele Satta, can be bought by the case for everyday drinking.

So, the next time you are dining out with friends, ask the sommelier if there are any 2021s from Tuscany on the wine list. Even if it’s not the Michele Satta Rosso, you’ll amaze everyone at the table. In fact, drop us a line and tell us how it goes.

Learn more about Michele Satta, follow them, and purchase their wine here:

https://michelesatta.com

@michelesatta_bolgheri

Domestically, pick it up at:

https://www.hitimewine.net

Quick, name three wine varietals that age well...

What did you come up with? Cabernet Sauvignon? Riesling? Nebbiolo? Chardonnay?

How many of you said Marsanne? If you have even heard of it as a varietal, you almost certainly didn’t name it as one that ages well. But it does. And one that is aging quite well, thank you, is our October wine of the month, the 2018 SummerWood Winery Marsanne Paso Robles.

Marsanne is a white grape of the Northern Rhône Valley that is more often blended with Roussanne than appearing as a varietal. It is a full-bodied wine typified by aromas and flavors of apricot, Mandarin orange, and honeysuckle. It traditionally has medium to medium minus acid. That might cause you to wonder how it can age so successfully. Well, acid is not the only factor in play when it comes to aging. Weight and texture also matter as well as the evolution of aromas.

The 2018 SummerWood Winery Marsanne comes from Paso Robles, which has soil and climate similar to the Northern Rhône Valley. White wines get darker over time, and this Marsanne, which began life as pale lemon, is now an appealing deep gold. The wine is full bodied and viscous, with a creamy mouthfeel. After aging for six years, the primary characteristics have been replaced with their tertiary counterparts of palate-coating bruised red apple, dried apricot, dried banana, nuttiness, petrol, and honey. It has evolved in a way that is akin to a fine Riesling. There is medium acid, which gives it enough of a backbone to carry the wine through to a long, balanced finish. An aged Marsanne is one of the true underrated treats in the wine world, and this vintage from SummerWood Winery is a wonderful representation. 

Of course, the trick is the patience to age it. SummerWood Winery makes it a bit easier on you by offering such a great value. The 2022 release is only $35. Buy half a case, and stagger them over the years. Open one right away and make notes about your drinking experience. Then, drink one every 18 months thereafter and consider the evolution of the wine. You will be rewarded and have a new go-to in your repertoire.

For making an exceptional Marsanne with outstanding aging potential at a reasonable price, the 2018 SummerWood Winery Marsanne Paso Robles is our October wine of the month.

Learn more about SummerWood Winery, follow them, and purchase their wine here:

https://www.summerwoodwine.com

@thesummerwoodwinery

In all the years we have been featuring a wine of the month at Peninsula Underground we have never had one from Italy. We don’t have any bias against Italy; just chalk this up to, “these things happen.”

Of course, our featured wine isn’t necessarily the best wine we have tasted in a given month; other factors are also in play. Does it deliver great value? Is it an interesting varietal or blend? Can it provide an opportunity to educate? Our September wine of the month, the 2022 Inama Soave Classico, answers “yes” to all of these questions.

As in most of the wine world outside of the United States, wine labels indicate where the grapes were grown, not the grape varietal. Soave is a town in the Veneto region of northeast Italy that primarily grows the white grape Garganega. Chances are you have never heard of this grape, let alone tasted the wine it produces. That should change.

The Inama Soave Classico Garganega grapes were grown in the original hillside vineyards around Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone. The Soave DOC dates back to 1968. Over time, the vineyards and region have expanded outside the original center. This expansion can often lead to reduced quality. “Classico” indicates that these particular grapes come from the original growing region, and are therefore generally of higher quality.

While ageworthy, the Inama Soave Classico is a joy to drink now. Pale lemon in color with zingy, high acidity and a touch of salinity giving the wine a medium plus finish. Aromas of tangerine, peach, melon, and a hint of mint. If you hold this bottle for several years, expect aromas to change to almond and marzipan.

Best of all, our wine of the month is a great value. You can pick it up at www.hitimewine.net for just $13.98.

For providing a tasty, zingy white wine from the classic region of Soave at a terrific price, the 2022 Inama Soave Classico is our September wine of the month.

Learn more about Inama here:

https://www.inama.wine/en/

Purchase here:

https://www.hitimewine.net/inama-2023-soave-classico-303993

A research study by Sonoma State University of 1,194 American wine consumers found that only 6% save their wine for aging. In many cases, that’s a shame; so many wines benefit from added time in the bottle. For those of you who can’t wait, our August wine of the month is for you: Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Zweigelt Niederösterreich.

Of course, you may now be intimidated because, unless you’re a real wine enthusiast, you probably don’t have any idea what that wine is.

Don’t be scared.

Zweigelt is Austria’s most widely planted red varietal. It is a fairly new crossing of the native varieties Blaüfrankisch and St. Laurent, and is named for the doctor who cross bred the grapes in 1922.

Schlosskellerei (German for “castle winery”…the Schlosskellerei label is carried on all the classic wines of the estate) Gobelsburg is the producer and is located in Niederösterreich (“Lower Austria”) in northeastern Austria. Its vineyards date back to 1171. That’s more than 850 years old! Ironically, our August wine of the month is on the opposite end of the spectrum. It is meant to be consumed young.

This Zweigelt is a deep ruby color and delivers aromas of fresh blackberry, sour cherry, and violet of medium intensity. On the palate, it is juicy, fresh, and linear, reflective of its cool climate. With air and time the wine exhibits subtle herbaceousness and wet wool. Tannins are medium and acid is low. Not heavy-handed at 12.5% ABV. It is a bright, fresh wine and in many ways Austria’s take on Beaujolais. It can be consumed immediately upon purchase, when it’s at its best, or cellared for a maximum of four to five years. Best of all, you can purchase it for around $20.

So, if you are invited to a friend’s house for dinner and want to impress them with an esoteric wine that can be consumed right after purchase and is gentle on the budget, then we highly encourage you to pick up the Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Zweigelt Niederösterreich, our August wine of the month.

Learn more about Schloss Gobelsburg, follow them, and purchase their Zweigelt here:

https://www.gobelsburg.at

@winery.schlossgobelsburg

https://www.wine.com/product/schloss-gobelsburg-schlosskellerei-zweigelt-2021/1585219

As the calendar turns to July and we prepare to celebrate our nation’s 248th birthday, our wine of the month takes on a patriotic theme by honoring a great wine made by a great American.

Major Jason Mergenov (Ret.) is the owner and winemaker of Los Alamos-based Rockets Red Wines. Jason spent 22 years in the United States Air Force and started taking classes in winemaking while still on active duty. Using the GI Bill, Jason graduated from Allan Hancock College in Santa Maria, California, with degrees in winemaking and grape growing. While in school, he worked part-time in tasting rooms and doing internships, learning various aspects of the wine industry.

Jason started Rockets Red Wines in 2018 to share amazing wines and highlight his time in the military while giving back to veterans and the local community. He specializes in small batch, quality rosés and reds, featuring grapes sourced from vineyards throughout Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties.

In 2021, Jason’s PTSD, that he had been suppressing for 18 years, caused major depression and he hit rock bottom. In May 2022, he attended the Home Base Program Intensive Clinical program, where he received life saving and transformative therapy. Since then, Jason has dedicated his life to raising awareness for mental health and using his voice, wines, and winemaking as a platform to highlight those issues. 

Jason’s Rockets Red Resilience (Grenache) is dedicated to all the veterans struggling with the invisible wounds of war, with a portion of the proceeds donated to the Home Base Program. In fact, Rockets Red Wines gives back to the community every year, from veterans in need to small-town school students struggling during a pandemic.

In our just completed 2024 Under the Radar California Wine Competition, Jason won best-in-class sparkling wine for the second year in a row with his 2023 Rockets Red Fizzion Petillant Naturel, our July wine of the month. "Pet Nat"--a sparkling wine made by bottling the wine before the first fermentation is complete--is all the rage now among a newer generation of wine drinkers and gaining steam with experienced winos as well. Rockets Red Fizzion has playful, fizzy bubbles that deliver strawberry, tart apple, and cherry blossom, with a backbone of minerality. The perfect addition to your 4th of July celebration and to your summer rotation. You will love this wine.

We have been honored to have Jason and Rockets Red Wines in our Under the Radar California competitions the last two years. For his distinguished contributions to the country, to the community, and to the wine industry, his 2023 Rockets Red Fizzion is our July wine of the month.

Purchase Rockets Red Wines and follow them here:

https://rocketsredwines.co

@Rockets_Red_Wines 

This is the 54th consecutive month we have highlighted a wine of the month. What goes into its selection? Is it simply the wine we liked the best over the past month? No. Whether you like a wine or not is subjective, so that can’t be the criteria. Some people don’t like Pinot Noir. They think it’s not big and bold like a Cabernet Sauvignon and therefore never drink it. Other people swear by Pinot; it’s their go-to wine.

The professional, certified tasters at Peninsula Underground have their personal favorites but they judge all wines, not just those they like. Each varietal has characteristics based upon region, climate, weather, slope, aspect, soil, and winemaking, just to name a few factors. This is sometimes loosely referred to as “terroir.” The aromas, flavors, acid, tannin, length, etc. are identified and used to judge a wine against its varietal peers. In other words, whether you like a wine is subjective, but what it is is objective. It’s one of the first things you learn as you go through certification.

When we get together as judges we always begin by reviewing what to expect from the wines on our docket. We never stop learning or trying to improve.

With that background in mind, our choice for June wine of the month, the 2023 Goosecross Cellars Rosé for Lucy (100% Pinot Noir) Napa Valley, is a model wine for teaching certain traits. (And, yes, it’s delicious!) J

udges first describe the color and intensity of a wine. Rosé is typically pink, salmon, or orange. The Goosecross Rosé for Lucy, named for the vintners’ daughter, is a classic pale salmon. We then judge the aroma: identifiable characteristics and intensity. Our June wine of the month has a wonderfully pronounced aroma. While you can pick out many descriptors, like strawberries or lime, this wine is most notable for its textbook cantaloupe.

Detecting aromas from a wine is a learned skill. Master Sommelier Peter Neptune tells his students that his job is to get them to learn his nose and palate. We can imagine him using this Goosecross Cellars Rosé for Lucy as the teaching wine for picking out the smell of cantaloupe. It’s what you would imprint on your brain, as a taster, to call upon later.

We had the pleasure of tasting through all of Goosecross’s wonderful wines on their patio not far off the Silverado Trail. We are grateful for Angelica’s courtesy in making arrangements to welcome us and for Antwaun, our new favorite wordsmith, for hosting us. Ask for him if you visit; your conversation with him—and his exuberant personality—enhances the tasting experience.

Winemaker Bill Nancarrow employed stainless steel aging to give the Rosé for Lucy a clean, fresh mouthfeel with bright acidity, allowing the fruit to be the star and carrying it to a long, satisfying finish. You need to pick up this wine now, before it’s gone, so that you have it for the summer. Outstanding value for $39.00.

So, later this month, when you’re having an afternoon get together, pull out our June wine of the month, the 2023 Goosecross Cellars Rosé for Lucy Napa Valley, pour it for your friends, and impress them with your tasting prowess. You can thank us later!

Learn more about Goosecross Cellars, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://goosecross.com

@goosecrosscellars

Do a self evaluation of your wine journey. Are you stuck in a rut? Always buying that same old buttery Chardonnay or smack-you-in-the-face Cabernet Sauvignon? Ultimately, if you enjoy it, then it doesn’t matter. But if you are at all curious and open to new experiences, then the world of wine has so much more to offer. Region, climate, weather, soil, slope, aspect, and technique can affect the wine so that the same varietal can have very different expressions.

Take Syrah, for example. For the most part, this Northern Rhône grape yields a wine featuring dark fruits, black pepper, and high tannins. In a warmer climate, like Paso Robles, that black pepper may turn to licorice. It’s a big, bold wine.

But it doesn’t have to be. Enter carbonic maceration and our May wine of the month, the Coquelicot* Estate Vineyard Carbonic Syrah Los Olivos District.

Carbonic maceration is a winemaking technique in which whole clusters of grapes are placed inside a sealed container that is filled with carbon dioxide. In this oxygen-free environment the grapes ferment from the inside (intracellular fermentation) until they crush under their own weight and release the juice so that the ambient yeast can finish the job. The result is a juicier wine with bright acidity and low tannins. Perhaps the most famous example of this style is Beaujolais Nouveau, made from Gamay and released every November around Thanksgiving.

Coquelicot’s winemaker, Mike Roth, has employed this technique to make a wonderfully bright Syrah with fresh candied flavors where the red fruit is more prominent than the black. Think jolly rancher, kirsch, and bubble gum, with violet on the nose as well. There is a hint of tannin to provide some texture and structure, but it’s not brooding as in a typical Syrah. This is a wine meant to be drunk young to take advantage of its freshness. A completely different, and still enjoyable, Syrah experience.

Also notable is the appearance. Mike wisely chose a clear glass bottle to highlight the color, which would technically be classified as a medium purple but we would call medium magenta (red wines are professionally described as either ruby, purple, garnet, or tawny). It’s beautiful.

Next time you’re in Los Olivos make a point to visit Coquelicot for a tasting. Try their Carbonic Syrah, our May wine of the month. You’ll be hooked. At $35 it’s a great value, and since this wine is meant to be drunk now, you can push back your buttery Chards and big Cabs for a while. You may even decide on your next wine adventure.

Learn more about Coquelicot, book your appointment, and purchase their wine here:

https://www.coquelicotwines.com

@coquelicot_wines

*(ko-klee-ko) 

Think about your favorite winery. The vineyard or tasting room you love to visit. You’re big fans of the wine they produce and have been club members for years. Maybe you’ve even volunteered there for fun.

Then think about buying that winery.

That’s the story of Dee and Todd Krivoshein, who in 2021 purchased Washington’s Page Cellars, home of the 2019 Preface Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, our April wine of the month.

Both Dee and Todd come from farming families, with Todd helping at his uncle’s Walla Walla winery as a teenager. By the time Dee stumbled upon a winery listed for sale, which turned out to be Page Cellars, on New Year’s Day 2021, the couple had already been club members and cellar volunteers. As they state on their website, they, “acquired the winery to build a family business and legacy. They intentionally chose Woodinville’s Warehouse District to create a tasting experience that immerses guests in the artisanal process of winemaking.”

The 2019 Page Cellars Preface comes from Red Mountain AVA, the perfect growing region for powerful, structured Cabernet Sauvignon. Red Mountain’s first vineyards were planted nearly 50 years ago and it became an AVA in 2001. The Cascade Mountain rain shadow protects the region from the heavy rains on the western side of the state. Its seven inches of annual rainfall is less than half that of Yountville in Napa Valley, and it yields 17 hours of sunlight during the growing season—two hours more than Napa Valley. The large diurnal range (roughly 50-90 degrees Fahrenheit) allows Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen properly, while also retaining acidity.

The 2019 Preface grabs hold of you from the start with pronounced intensity of aroma and flavor. Expect peppercorn, red and black cherry, and violet, layered with warm spice, vanilla, and pipe tobacco. The wine has a luxurious mouthfeel, outstanding balance, and a long finish. A bold Cabernet Sauvignon with great structure and a long life. It’s no surprise that the 2019 Preface won a gold medal in our 2024 Washington State Wine Competition.

The Woodinville Warehouse District, about 20 miles northeast of Seattle is one of the country’s great wine-tasting areas, with more than 100 tasting rooms to visit. When you go, make sure Page Cellars is one of your stops and taste their 2019 Preface Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, our April wine of the month. Tell Dee and Todd that Peninsula Underground sent you.

Learn more about Page Cellars, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://pagecellars.com

@PageCellars 

Imagine pressing just one drop of nectar from each grape to produce a wine. Does that really happen? What is the process? The wine must be prohibitively expensive!

The answers are: yes, we’ll explain, and not terribly.

Icewine is something of a delicacy in the wine world. Grapes remain on the vine long and into winter until the point they freeze and then they are picked. At Peller Estates Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada, home of our March of the Month, the 2019 Million Icewine VQA Niagara Peninsula, they do this with their Vidal grapes at -10*C (14*F). The sugars and other dissolved solids in the grape do not freeze, but the water does, allowing a more concentrated grape nectar to be pressed from the grape. Because the balance of sugars and water have been shifted, the result is a lusciously sweet wine suitable as an aperitif.

The wine is a medium gold color, approaching amber. Expect a very pure array of fruit on the palate: citrus, stone, and tropical. There is wonderfully refreshing acidity to provide backbone, and a long, lingering, honey finish. It is such a treat. Pair this with your dessert or after-dinner cheeses. And because the sugar levels are so high, this wine only reaches 11% ABV, making it (slightly) guilt free!

Icewine is not poured the way a typical glass of red or white wine is poured. It is best savored in small quantities. That is why Peller Estates Winery makes our March wine of the month in a 200 mL bottle. Given what it takes to make this wine, it is a surprisingly good value at $55. We highly recommend it.

Learn more about Peller Estates Winery, purchase their wine, and follow them here:

https://www.peller.com

@pellerwines

The tag line on our Peninsula Underground logo is, “Find Great Wines.” To do so, you often must step outside your comfort zone. There are so many exciting wines in the world—wines that make your palate come alive. But if you are used to drinking the same two or three varietals, how will you ever come to appreciate other great wines? If you want to improve your aerobic fitness, you need to run more. If you want to increase your muscle mass, you need to lift more weights. If you want to upgrade your wine palate, you need to drink different wines.

The first step in expanding your wine horizon is our February wine of the month, the 2021 St. Avalo Nero d’Avola Los Olivos District Santa Barbara County.

Nero d’Avola is the most important red-wine grape in Sicily and has more recently popped up in Valle de Guadalupe and Mendocino County. This expression from St. Avalo is deep purple in color and has a pronounced intensity of aroma and flavor. There are a plethora of identifiable characteristics that are impressively balanced. Primary descriptors: blackberry, black raspberry, blueberry, black currant, violet, black currant leaf, and wet wool. Secondary: toast, butterscotch, and chocolate. Tertiary: savory and vegetal. This wine has fruit on the midpalate that adds layers of complexity on the velvety finish. A high acid, high tannin, full-bodied treat that can be enjoyed now or over the next 7-10 years. We scored it a 93.7 a few months ago and scores will only go up from there. Outstanding.

We were first introduced to Diana & Oliver Ramleth, and the impressive team at St. Avalo, in our 2023 Under the Radar California Competition, where they took home Best in Class for their Pinot Grigio and Vermentino. Their first release of reds (Sangiovese, Dornfelder, Gamay Noir, and Pinot Noir, in addition to the Nero d’Avola) has been a revelation. And, with a new tasting room soon to open in Los Olivos, word will spread quickly about this new gem in the wine world.

We so appreciate St. Avalo’s contributions to the industry by making outstanding varietals that give us a chance to grow in our wine journey. For that reason, the 2021 St. Avalo Nero d’Avola Los Olivos District Santa Barbara County is our February wine of the month.

Purchase, learn more, and follow St. Avalo here:

https://www.stavalo.com

@StAvaloWine 

If you believe that a new year is about starting fresh—a clean slate—then shouldn’t your first wine of the year be symbolic of this mindset?

A big, heavy Cabernet Sauvignon or Sagrantino suggests more about comfort, the status quo. Fat and happy. They don’t set the tone for renewal. What does?

Albariño.

From Rías Baixas in Galicia in the northwest Iberian Peninsula—a region know as green Spain—Albariño grows near the European frontier of the Atlantic Ocean. Go west, young grape! It thrives in cooler climates (winter renewal) and does well with rainfall (cleansing). It is typically fermented in inert vessels, like stainless steel, to preserve the pronounced aromas of citrus, stone fruit, and apple. It is fresh and clean with high acidity and salinity.

To get us in the mood for this winter rebirth, we chose the 2021 Albariño de Fefiñanes D.O. Rías Baixas as our January wine of the month. It is a wonderful expression of the variety with red apple, honeysuckle, brininess, and high acidity. The wine dances about the palate in a way that wakes up your senses. It is rejuvenating. A perfect start to the new year. 

Best of all, you can buy this wine for less than $35. We picked it up at Hi-Time Wine Cellars for $31.98. A fantastic value.

Your January does not need to be dry to start fresh—your wine just needs to set the proper tone. Try the (dry) 2021 Albariño de Fefiñanes D.O. Rías Baixas, our January wine of the month, and you’ll see what we mean.

Learn more about Bodegas Fefiñanes here:

https://www.fefinanes.com/es/

@BodegaFefinanes

Purchase from Hi-Time here:

https://www.hitimewine.net/fefinanes-2021-albarino-380557