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december WINE OF THE MONTH
2019 Domaine Johann Michel Cornas
For the average consumer, French wine can be intimidating. Unless you speak the language, the mere words on the label, let alone the pronunciation, are a deal killer. “Why can’t they just put Cabernet Sauvignon on the bottle?!”
When we tell you that the 2019 Domaine Johann Michel Cornas is our December wine of the month you might think Cornas is a grape varietal they grow in France. Incorrect. It is a varietal many Americans, particularly those in California, know quite well: Syrah. We didn’t use our French-wine decoder ring (there is no such thing) to discover this; we took classes. For those who don’t have the time or desire to seek sommelier or WSET certifications, here is a basic primer.
French wine laws are rather strict and complex. It’s not like the United States where you can basically grow whichever grapes you want, wherever you want. In France, the allowable grape varietals are essentially based on what grows well in a particular region. For the most part, in France the varietal does not appear on the label. Instead, it’s usually the region, village, or vineyard. The trick is to understand which grapes grow in those locations, as dictated by French wine law.
Cornas is an appellation in the Northern Rhône Valley, south of Lyon, that grows Syrah. This makes sense because the warm climate and sun-baked slopes are conducive to successfully growing this grape. When you see Cornas on a wine label you know it must be 100% Syrah.
The 2019 Domaine Johann Michel Cornas is our choice as wine of the month because it will be familiar to those with California palettes while providing a bridge to the French style. In the glass the color is a bit more restrained than you would normally find in California: it is deep ruby (not quite purple). Medium plus intensity of aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, black plum, violet, stone, and leather abound. However, the primary difference between California and Cornas is that in this wine licorice predominates whereas in California black pepper is often the star.
This Cornas is youthful, which is the way we tend to drink them in California, but is developing into something that will be layered and balanced for years to come. The acid is high and the tannins are medium plus. It is full-bodied with a long finish. It can be thoroughly enjoyed now but if you buy half a case you’ll be rewarded by letting several lay down and opening them every other year beginning in about three years.
On your next dinner with friends we suggest picking up a bottle of your favorite Paso Robles Syrah and drinking it side by side with the 2019 Domaine Johann Michel Cornas and see if you can detect the differences. You might even impress them with your French wine knowledge.
Here endeth the lesson.
You can purchase our December wine of the month online through most major wine retailers and can follow Domaine Johann Michel @Michel.Johann.
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