Every so often a wine forces you to reconsider an assumption you didn't even realize you held.
Rosé has spent years battling an image problem. Too often it is portrayed as simple, seasonal, and carefree—a wine meant for patios rather than contemplation. The 2024 Theopolis Vineyards Rosé of Petite Sirah Yorkville Highlands has little interest in fitting that narrative.
It is one of those rare wines that refuses to be confined by category.
That became abundantly clear during Peninsula Underground's 5th Annual Under the Radar California Wine Competition. Our panel of 15 judges blind tasted wines representing dozens of California AVAs, searching for the state's finest small-production wineries. When the scores were finalized, this remarkable rosé had earned Best-in-Class Rosé, an astonishing fourth Best in Show, and second Best Value, finishing ahead of so many outstanding white, red, and sparkling, wines.
Those honors are impressive. They are also completely deserved.
The first impression is bright cherry and raspberry, but the wine quickly reveals another personality. Warm baking spices emerge alongside toasted brioche, while a whisper of smoke adds intrigue without ever overwhelming the fruit. The wine occupies a fascinating space somewhere between a traditional rosé and a light-bodied red. Think less Provence by the swimming pool and more Cru Beaujolais with a slight chill. Most impressive is how the wine continually evolves. Every return to the glass uncovers another nuance. The final sip proves every bit as compelling as the first, delivering a finish that is remarkably long, layered, and sophisticated. This is rosé with confidence.
The story behind the bottle is equally compelling.
Theopolis Vineyards was founded by Theodora Lee, known throughout the wine world as "Theo-patra, Queen of the Vineyards." Before becoming one of California's most respected boutique vintners, Lee built an accomplished career as a San Francisco trial attorney. Her interest in wine began through law firm mentors who owned vineyards, inspiring her to study viticulture at UC Davis before purchasing rugged sheep pasture in the Yorkville Highlands and planting her first five acres of Petite Sirah in 2003. Today, her estate has become synonymous with expressive, handcrafted wines that consistently outperform expectations.
That legal background creates an enjoyable coincidence for Peninsula Underground.
Like Lee, Peninsula Underground Senior Writer and Co-Founder Steve Rochford also practiced law before dedicating himself to wine writing and earning a level three award with the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. While their careers have followed different paths, both discovered that careful analysis, patience, and an appreciation for nuance translate surprisingly well from the courtroom to the cellar. Great lawyers examine every detail before reaching a conclusion. Great wines reward those willing to do the same.
The Yorkville Highlands has long remained one of California's overlooked treasures. Sitting in southeastern Mendocino County near the Sonoma County line, the AVA's rugged elevation, rocky soils, and dramatic day-to-night temperature swings produce wines of exceptional structure and personality. Theopolis Vineyards has become one of the region's standard bearers, demonstrating just how extraordinary this lesser-known appellation can be.
Then there is the price.
At just $28, this bottle embodies something Peninsula Underground has always championed: exceptional value. Outstanding wine should not require an extravagant budget. While many consumers assume they must spend two or three times as much to experience a truly memorable bottle, wines like this prove otherwise.
The 2024 Theopolis Vineyards Rosé of Petite Sirah is more than our July Wine of the Month. It is a reminder that some of California's most exciting wines are still waiting to be discovered, crafted by passionate small-production vintners who quietly pursue excellence without the fanfare enjoyed by larger brands. If you've been waiting for a rosé with the structure of a red, the complexity of a serious food wine, and the confidence to challenge expectations, your search is over.
Sometimes the wines that leave the greatest impression are the ones that challenge everything you thought you knew.
Learn more about Theopolis Vineyards, purchase their wine, and follow them here:
https://www.theopolisvineyards.com
@TheopolisVineyards